Ruby Rings

What you are paying for in a ruby ring

Four things set the price, and the two that move it most are invisible in a photograph.

• Color is the reference point. The target is a vivid, pure red, the grade the trade calls pigeon blood. A trace of blue or purple lifts the red. brown or orange undertones pull value down.
• Origin is of utmost importance. Burma prices first and Mozambique second, and the gap between an origin certified stone and an uncertified one of the same appearance is substantial.
• Treatment sets the spread. An unheated ruby with good color sits in a different price bracket from a heated stone that looks similar.
• Size is scarce. Fine ruby above 2 carats is rare enough that price per carat steps up sharply at the weight breaks rather than climbing evenly.

Burmese supply is the current story behind the price. War and floods have dramatically reduced the quantity of Burmese gems reaching the market, and nothing has replaced them.

Heated, unheated, and the one thing to check

A lot of rubies on the market are heated. The process is centuries old, permanent and stable, and a heated ruby with a disclosed report is a legitimate stone.

Our buying focus is unheated. Unheated rubies are genuinely scarce, they are what the auction records are built on, and the premium over an equivalent heated stone is significant rather than marginal.

One thing sits outside all of this. Lead-glass filling pours molten glass into surface reaching fractures to make heavily included material look clean. Those stones are worth a small fraction of standard heated ruby and can be damaged by ordinary jewelry repair. A report that says heated is a normal, good stone. a report that says fracture filled or glass residue is something else, and we disclose it either way.

Setting and metal

Ruby is 9 on the Mohs scale, second only to diamond, so durability places no limit on the design. Setting choice here is purely about how you want the red to read.

• Solitaires put everything on the stone, which suits a ruby with even color that holds to the edges.
• Three stone designs flank the ruby with diamonds, which raises apparent saturation by contrast and helps a slightly paler stone.
• Statement and unique designs carry larger stones and give the red more visual weight on the hand.

White gold and platinum both raise the contrast and make the red read stronger and cooler. Platinum is the denser choice for prongs you expect to wear for decades. Shapes here run to cushion, oval and marquise, all of which hold color well across the face of the stone.

Judging the red before you click

• View it tilted, not flat. Dark patches that appear as the stone moves are extinction, usually from a cut made to hold weight.
• Check the color reaches the edges. Red often pools in the center of a poorly oriented stone.
• Compare indoors and in daylight. Burmese material with low iron can glow in daylight, and that lift is the hardest thing to see in a photograph.