Emerald Earrings

Matching is what you are paying for

Finding one good emerald is straightforward. Finding two that agree is a sourcing exercise, and it is why two pairs of similar looking earrings can be priced far apart.

• Color and tone should match closely enough that the pair reads as one piece across a room.
• Size should match within a fraction of a millimeter.
• Jardin density should be comparable, or one stone will look cloudier than the other in daylight.
• Cut quality should match, or one earring will return noticeably more light.

Matched pairs of colored stones are harder to source than single stones, and in emerald, where inclusion patterns are unique to each crystal, harder again.

Emerald is easier to wear in earrings than anywhere else

Emerald sits at 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale and chips more easily than ruby or sapphire. Earrings are where that matters least.

• They take almost no impact. Unlike a ring, an earring is rarely knocked against anything hard.
• Open settings are reasonable here. A drop design that would leave a ring stone exposed is a sensible choice in an earring.
• The one rule still applies. No ultrasonic or steam cleaning, because both strip the oil that nearly every emerald carries. Warm water, mild soap and a soft cloth.

Choosing the style

• Drop earrings give the stones movement and catch light from more angles, which suits pear and oval shapes.
• Halo designs frame each emerald in diamonds, which raises apparent saturation by contrast and makes a modest stone read larger. This is often the better value choice, since a halo flatters a slightly paler or more included emerald more than it flatters a top color one.
• Pavé designs spread small emeralds across the setting rather than centering one stone, so color consistency across many stones is what to look at.
• Unique designs carry the more individual stones in the range.

White gold keeps the green cool and raises contrast. Rose gold warms the setting and softens the transition, which flatters the cooler, bluer green of Zambian material.