Sapphire Earrings

How sapphire behaves in small stones

This is the practical thing to know before you choose a size.

• Saturation drops as stones get smaller. Less depth of material means less color, so a half carat sapphire often reads paler than the same rough would at two carats. For studs, look for stones with slightly deeper tone than you would want in a ring.
• Very dark stones go flat at small sizes. Without the size to carry the tone, a near black sapphire loses life and simply reads dark on the ear.
• Halo and pavé settings correct for this. White diamonds next to a lighter sapphire raise its apparent saturation by contrast, which is why small stones often look stronger framed than bare.

Matching across the pair

• Color and tone should match closely enough that the pair reads as one piece at conversational distance.
• Size should match within a fraction of a millimeter.
• Cut should match, or one earring will flash noticeably harder than the other.

In hoop and pavé designs there are many stones rather than two, so what matters is consistency along the whole line rather than a single pairing. Look at the piece as a whole rather than at any individual stone.

Choosing the style

• Studs are the most worn and the easiest to live with. Sapphire is 9 on the Mohs scale, so they handle sleeping, showering and daily wear without complaint.
• Hoops carry sapphires around the curve and catch light from every angle as you move.
• Drops hang below the lobe and suit larger, more saturated stones.
• Halo and pavé designs use diamonds to raise the apparent color of the sapphires.
• Flower motifs cluster several stones, where evenness of color across the cluster is what to judge.

White gold keeps the blue crisp and clean. Yellow gold warms and deepens it, which suits the brighter, more open Sri Lankan blues better than it suits a very dark stone.