Jewelry Buyers Guide to Quality Assurance - Prong Settings

Let’s face the facts, there is a lot of competition out there and companies will do whatever they can to attract more customers. Therefore, regardless of whether you are investing $8,000, $80,000, or even $800,000, there is a need to educate yourself as best you can to ensure you are making the right decision when it comes to your diamond jewelry.

 

When assessing the level of quality on the production of your jewelry there are many aspects to focus on before releasing any products to the public. Only, in place of only claiming to uphold to the highest levels of quality, we thought it best to teach our customers how to inspect their jewelry on their own so they can see for themselves. We suggest you start with the prong settings to ensure your diamonds remain secure.


The Diamond Cut

How well a stone is cut is actually considered one of the most important characteristics of a diamond or gemstone. The longer the light remains within the stone, the more the color will show. Unlike colorless stones, since the goal is to contain the color within the diamond for as long as possible, the diamond facets are often cut asymmetrical and somewhat out of proportion to maximize the reflection of light. As a result, sometimes setting the stone accurately is a little more complicated. However, if done correctly, the outcome is only that much more mesmerizing.

 

Marking the rough diamond before the cut

 

The Perfect Prong Setting

In order to securely set a diamond in its place, the prongs must be made with accuracy.

  • They should be rounded, polished, and have an entirely smooth surface.
  • Coming up from the setting, the prong should be evenly bent over the crown so that the metal is flat against the crown.
  • Each prong must have the perfect angle cut so that it conforms to the shape of the stone on either side.
  • The outer curve, otherwise known as the heel of the prong, must be at least half as thick as the entire prong. This minimizes the chance that it will crack in the future.

Jewelry-making-wedding-band

Setting a Leibish wedding band

The Guide to Secure Prongs

The perfect prong setting will look like this:

  1. 70-80% of the height of the table
  2. The metal is formed flatly and evenly against the crown
  3. The prong is cut in the specific angle that accommodates the stone’s shape perfectly
  4. The thickness of the hook of the prong is no less than 50% of the prong’s thickness

Use these guidelines when buying a prong setting to avoid poor quality workmanship:


The Heel of the Prong

Check the heel’s thickness – if it’s less the 50% of the rest of prong, it might bend or break.

 

The Top of the Prong

If the top of the prong is thin it might bend or break and the stone will eventually fall.


A Hooked Prong

A hooked prong does not “hug” the stone tightly enough and therefore does not secure it properly.



No Hug

 If the top of the prong is not bent around the stone it might catch on textiles and fibers and eventually bend backwards.

 

Prongs Cut in the Wrong Angle

 If the prong is not cut in the specific angle of the stone, the stone will not sit securely and will not have support.


Inaccurately Cut Prongs

Prongs cut with the wrong tool are weak and don’t hug the stone properly.


Incorrect Angled Prongs

 When the height of the prong is not 70-80% of the height of the table, the prong usually bends outwards after some time.

Leibish & Co. has an incredibly high percentage of returning customers, but don’t take our word for it... now that you know what to look for, check it out on your own!

 

Take a look at our collection and let us know which pieces interest you most!

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