Admiring Pinks &Purples

By Leibish Polnauer & Diana Jaret

Collectors of fancy color diamonds can go on rapturously when discussing pink diamonds. Connoisseurs will tell you that every pink diamond has a story. The ones we present here for instance, have centuries of provenance thanks to their original owners.

But likewise, even newer pink diamonds have a unique tale there are so very few of them in the world. Their contemporary guardians are building a modern day legacy that adds to their ongoing mystique for generations to come.

Pink Pedigree

Christies recently announced its hammer price at auction of the legendary “Marie-Thérèse Pink,” a 10.38 carat fancy purple-pink diamond belonging to France’s Marie Antoinette, which she passed down to her only surviving child, Duchess Marie Thérèse de Angoulême, and later to her niece, Duchess Marie Thérèse de Chambord.

Under Marie Antoinette’s care, the pink sparkler first came to view in a tiara, and later in a hat pin. Its last incarnation was as the centerpiece of a fleur-de-lis motif ring—the symbol of the French House of Bourbon.

Thanks to the Queen’s swift actions during the bloody French Revolution, her priceless jewels were smuggled out of Paris and into the safekeeping of her daughter. Generations later the pink diamond was referenced in the will of Queen Marie Theresa of Bavaria, the diamond’s next known owner, Christie’s said. 

The 18th century diamond garnering $14M US, (3X its highest pre-sale estimate) was in all likelihood from Golconda, India. The gem’s important pedigree was safeguarded in a velvet case containing a hat pin bearing the Austrian Imperial Warrant, circa 1868. Queen Marie Theresa referred to the jewel as “a pink solitaire diamond from Aunt Chambord.” 

Royal Lineage

Regal jewels tend to stay within royal households. The pink stone was last seen in 1996 at an auction in Geneva, offered by a European royal family member. It remained out of sight for three decades until it came up for sale at Christie’s recently.

Royal backgrounds do lend a certain aura to fancy color diamonds. A jewel boasting a majestic provenance is not simply a jewel anymore; it conveys a piece of history, layering intrigue, luxury, and cultural significance upon each facet.

Legendary stones like the Dresden Green, the Hope Diamond, or the Wittelsbach-Graff are extraordinary stones without equal. Yet, their connection to royalty amplifies their allure, value, and mystique.

Elizabeth’s Pink

Britain’s longest reigning monarch, Queen Elizabeth II was lauded for her extraordinary jewelry collection. Her most iconic pieces were colorless diamonds (like the legendary Cullinan diamonds), but she also owned or had access to rare and historic fancy color diamonds.

The Williamson Pink Diamond, gifted to Princess Elizabeth as a wedding present in 1947 remained a sentimental favorite. The Flawless Fancy Vivid Pink stone weighed 54.5 carats when she received it and was later cut to 23.6 carats.

 Preference for Purple

The color purple is as bold as it is elegant. Historically it’s often associated with royalty, sovereignty, and nobility, while eliciting feelings of luxury and creativity. Britain’s beloved Queen Elizabeth II adored purple in all its lovely variations, and found many occasions to flaunt her preference for the regal hue.

The public enjoyed seeing her dressed immaculately in tone-on-tone ensembles exhibiting subtle shades of her favorite color.

 Purple Diamonds

In June 2024, global news outlets announced that Rio Tinto had unearthed an unusual purple crystal at its Diavik mine in Canada's Northwest Territories. The vibrant .45 carat diamond lent a sparkling crescendo to Diavek mine’s waning years.

"Diavik diamonds are typically white, so this came as a pleasant surprise," officials said.  "The shape of the rough diamond is known as a 'makeable' which means it will likely be cut into a single diamond."

The LEIBISH team has relished a decades-long affair with purple diamonds. Some 12 years ago we cut a remarkable stone we named Purple Orchid, a VS2 Pinkish Purple. A later recut to 3.37 carats improved its color grade to Intense Purple.

Exceptional Fancy Deep Pink Radiant Triple Halo Diamond Earrings GIA

Extraordinary Fancy Light Purplish Pink Cushion Double Halo Diamond Ring GIA

That Something about Purple Diamonds

Pure (or straight) purple diamonds evoke an aristocratic, cool, and understated elegance.  However, when they exhibit pink as a modifier, the stone becomes engulfed in a sensual warmth that beckons with its come-hither vibe.

The purple tint acts like an exclusive oriental spice – just a touch of purple to a red or pink diamond makes the color soar like a rocket.

How rare are these cherished stones? There are precious few gems above 3 carats that possess purple as its main color. We have polished many purplish reds, most of which originated in Australia.

This 0.52 carat Fancy Purplish Red is one of the finest examples of the enriching influence of the purple shade.

Through mysterious circumstances, many of the finest stones produced at the legendary now-closed Argyle mine have a purple modifying color. Yet, because of their extreme rarity, they seldom display purple as its main hue.

The purple tint is more often a modifying color in stones emerging from South Africa, too.  

Yet, some of these coveted anomalies have been found in Canada’s Diavik and Victor diamond mines. Most of them exhibit a pink modifying color like our 2.01 carat FP-P. Its purple tint shimmers with a cool subtle elegance that collector’s crave.

True Purple Exhibits Unmatched Charisma

0.23 carat, Fancy Vivid Purple, pear diamond with SI2 clarity, graded by GIA.

This extremely rare purple diamond displays remarkable argaman color saturation. The stone has Very Good polish and Good symmetry. 

Here to Stay

Rare and unique fancy color diamonds never go out of fashion. Their exceptional appeal and timeless elegance insures its lasting value in any collection of world-class gems.